My journey to the Golden Rock which I had been wanting to visit ever since my first visit to this wonderful country in 1986 would take nearly 10 hours and 1000s of km.
I started the day with a wonderful breakfast in the garden court yard of my hotel and was then taken by the two lovely managers to the airport.

Once I arrived in Yangon airport the trusted pre-paid taxi stand provided me the means to get to the bus terminal where I had to catch the bus to the ‘base camp’ town of the Golden Rock. I have only had positive experiences as a single female traveller wearing local, traditional clothes. People commented favourably on my attempt at respecting the local culture and fitting in. At the bus stand I had lunch at one of the many food stalls. I said a few prayers to the goodness of health and food hygiene and tucked into this tasty meal!

The bus filled quickly and soon an elderly lady was moved to sit next to me. I was the only foreigner on the bus and they must have thought that this arrangement would be best. Well it certainly was. The dear lady was kindness personified – trying to translate in her quite limited English a political satire theatre show they played on the DVD player, feeding me some local sweet snack, and taking care of me at the bus stop when we had a wee break.
Verbal and non-verbal communication allowed me to experience a sense of connection that was quite unique.

I , too, like the majority of pilgrims, was buzzing with excitement! I glimpsed the rock from a far. As it was still very early in the morning ( the ride up took approximately 45 mins) the atmosphere still was a little subdued and serene.

As I headed towards the actual site I came across this slightly smaller rock where a monk was meditating.

Many people stay overnight and so when the trucks arrive there are lots of porters ready to carry the heavy looking bags and suitcases to the various guest houses!

I enjoyed the stunning view and amazing scenery and then went up to the rock.

And of course the actual sight and energy of the place was simply stunning!

The actual rock is only accessible by man, women sit or view the rock slightly to the side of the rock.

And is often the case in Asia people who don’t know you from a bar of soap want to have their photo taken with you…

Kyaiktiyo Pagoda (also known as Golden Rock) is a well-known Buddhist pilgrimage site in Mon State, Myanmar. It is a small pagoda (7.3 metres (24 ft)) built on the top of a granite boulder covered with gold leaves pasted on by devotees. According to legend, the Golden Rock itself is precariously perched on a strand of the Buddha’s hair. The balancing rock seems to defy gravity, as it perpetually appears to be on the verge of rolling down the hill. The rock and the pagoda are at the top of Mt. Kyaiktiyo. It is the third most important Buddhist pilgrimage site in Burma after the Shwedagon Pagoda and the Mahamuni Pagoda. A glimpse of the “gravity defying” Golden Rock is believed to be enough of an inspiration for any person to turn to Buddhism.

My day started very early. I set out at 5.30am. The local bus station where all trucks for the top of the mountain depart from was already lively with activity, sound and excitement. Large trucks take pilgrims and tourists to the top of the mountain. There are 2 or 3 people per truck who organize the ‘loading’ of these trucks.

Approximately 58 people are being tightly squeezed in, 8 to a row that is a very narrow bench with nowhere to hold on to. In a way you don’t really need to hold on because you are wedged in and so one is supported by each other. Still the ride is so wild, twisty and amazingly beautiful that one would like to have the opportunity to take a few happy snaps on the way.

The scenery was stunning. Luscious and green jungle formed the backdrop to mountain ranges as we were climbing higher and higher.

Simply stunning!

I had travelled to one of the bigger pagodas and wanted to park my little e bike when I was approached by a man telling me that I had a flat tyre. He suggested I go to the nearby Ananda temple as my chances of getting it fixed there were better. So I pushed my bike through the sandy track, crossed the road and had him help me with shifting it up and down the next stretch to the temple grounds. Once we arrived, he called ‘my hotel manager’ who promptly offered to come out with a replacement bike. I left the helpful man in charge of the bike and went to explore Ananda temple.
What fortuitous circumstance – the temple was great and I never would have seen it had it not been for the flat tyre!

I had hired an electro bike for the two days I stayed at Bagan. Great way to get around. Only problem is that it needs to be recharged after each use ( and not hired out to another person in between use of original hiring person – ie me)!
Street life and early morning routines in Burma are similar to India. Yet some things are curiously missing. Like motorbikes in Yangon (banned as an answer to traffic jams) and the constant blaring of horns and music!
Other things- such as the clearing of throat, nose and other airways- are absolutely present. The carrying of burdens and heavy loads on one’s head or across shoulders is definitely there in both countries.
Bagan is a comparatively quiet place and my ride to some of the spectacular pagodas was filled with wonder and beauty.

This ancient place saw 55 kings rule over a span of 1300 years from the 1st to the 13th century. In the 20 square miles area over 4000 ancient monuments and buildings are situated many of which contains mural paintings, stone carvings and stucco carving.
On tourist maps several pagodas are highlighted for sunrise and sunset viewings. This place really is a photographers paradise.

Early bird caches the flight. Brrrrr. Too early! Dragged exhausted body to airport. Lax security but couldn’t really give a hoot. Interesting label on airline:

The 1.5 hour flight allowed me to see some stunning country side and the beautifully winding Ayewaddy river.

Sithu Hein had arranged for me to stay in Bawga Theiddhi Resort as the owner is a family friend. I was therefore picked up by the two managers of the hotel and received somewhat of VIP treatment during my stay.

Wonderful welcome! Heat, sounds, roads, cars, absence of motorbikes and scooters all refreshingly different!
Both, women and men wear mostly traditional clothes – both wear a sarong, differently patterned and tied for men and women.
Climate and vegetation is quite similar to that of Queensland. At the lovely home of my friends I, too, was given some wonderfully colourful sarongs and tops. I was then whisk away to a travel agency where my next three days were planned for me. Any domestic flights need to be booked through a travel agency – there is still some state control in place. I just had to hand over the money and the rest was done for me.
Sithu Hein, the son of the two ladies and his friend Kit had taken me under their wings and took me to a local restaurant where we sampled various real Burmese dishes. Luckily no circardas or other insects were part of the fare.

We then went to the Shwedagon pagoda. What can I say! Bright, golden and impressive – especially at night.

We were joined by Sithu Hein’s mother and walked once around the entire complex.

In one area of the temple ground is a very large photo of the Mahabodhi temple in Bodhgaya. 85% of the population is Buddhist so in the next few days whenever I mentioned that I had just come from Bodhgaya or Buddhagaya as some people like to refer to, people knew immediately. It was a good way to connect with people.

When I stayed with Kiran-jee at the Daijokyio TG I had the immense pleasure of meeting a lovely Burmese family consisting of three generations- the mother, her two daughters, and the grandson. They had travelled with a group of monks to BG for a very special Buddhist ceremony. They asked me to look them up when I arrived in Yangoon.

A series of meetings that reinforced the notion of a few degrees of separation began as I left India for Burma.
The taxi driver who took me to the airport not only came from Bihar but, wait for it, from Bodhgaya.
Most of the passenger travelling to Burma where of course Burmese (mostly pilgrims and monks) and so before long I was asked whether I had been to Bodhgaya as I was using a shoulder bag with the Bodhi tree on it. The pilgrim and monk had a good look at my photo and spotted Burmese Bhante, the abbot of the Burmese Vihara in BG. He also knew the Burmese family I was about to meet in Yangoon as well as the monks who had travelled with the family to BG. Later when I stayed in Bagan the same thing happened with a restaurant owner who had travelled to BG on pilgrimage with his wife.